How Does a Dishwasher Work?

The dishwasher is a labor-saving and water-conserving appliance that was originally patented in 1886 by Josephine Cochran of Shelbyville, Illinois, who went on to found KitchenAid®.  There are both portable units and permanently-installed units that are found in most homes today. 

Permanently-installed dishwashers rely on the home's electrical and plumbing systems, which is why their proper operation and maintenance are critical to household safety and trouble-free use.

A dishwasher operates with sprayed water using multiple cycles of washing and rinsing, followed by drying, using hot, forced circulated air.  These cycles may be further distinguished according to length of cycle, power and temperature.

Dishwashers are plugged into a dedicated electrical receptacle at the back of the unit, and usually plumbed into the home's hot water supply, although the cold water supply is also an option.  This assures that the dishwasher's load is optimally washed and rinsed using the maximum recommended temperature range of between 130° F and 170° F. 

The dimensions of an average unit are 24x24 inches, although deluxe models may be wider and/or deeper to accommodate larger loads.  Its interior components are typically made of stainless steel and/or plastic, and the exterior door may be metal, enamel-covered metal, or having a wood or wood-like veneer to match the decor of the kitchen cabinets.

Use, Maintenance and Precautions

Dishwasher-safe glasses, cups, plates, bowls, pots, pans and utensils, as well as some ceramic-ware and cutlery, are loaded into pull-out racks and baskets.  They can be safely washed and rinsed in cycles that vary in intensity and length. 

Many users rinse, soak or pre-treat cookware to remove solids and excess food waste before loading it in the dishwasher; this is a matter of personal preference, as well as how well the unit works on everyday and heavy-duty loads, although waste that cannot be adequately drained should be removed from dishware before the soiled items are loaded into the unit.

Dishwashers can also be used to effectively disinfect toothbrushes, infants' plastic toys, formula bottles and synthetic nipples, and teething rings, as well as other household and personal hygiene items.  However, extremely soiled items that come into contact with potentially hazardous or toxic materials, such as tools, gardening implements and the like, should not be washed in a dishwasher, as the toxic residue may not fully rinse out of the interior, which can contaminate future loads of dishware and utensils, as well as clog plumbing lines. 

Soaps, pre-treaters and rinsing agents to prevent or eliminate water spots are available in a variety of costs, quality and effectiveness.  They also come in both powder and liquid form.  Regardless of the type of detergent used, it should be specifically for dishwasher use only, as other soaps can leave behind residue, as well as create excess foam and leaks.

Maintenance is relatively easy and can be done by running the unit through a hot-water cycle while it is empty, but this is only suggested following an especially dirty load where residue has not fully washed and drained for some reason. 

Dishwashers should never be overloaded.  Loads should be distributed and racked such that cleaning will be effective.  It is recommended that plastic items be loaded into the unit's top rack to avoid their coming into contact with hot elements in the unit's bottom and then melting, or being jostled by the power of the sprayers and subsequently blocking them, which may prevent the water from reaching the unit's entire load. 

It is important to monitor the unit for failure to fully drain, as well as for leaks, excessive noise and movement, and burning smells, which can indicate a burned-out motor, an issue with the plumbing connected to the unit, or a problem with its original installation.  A qualified professional should evaluate a malfunctioning unit and perform any repairs.

Source https://www.nachi.org/

What's the Cost of a Home Inspection if done in Pieces?

How much is a home inspection actually worth when looking at the pieces? Recently I had a client cancel a level two chimney inspection that was scheduled as part of their home inspection. The reason was because the seller had just had the chimney and fireplace inspected and they no longer needed us to inspect the chimney. While we were inspecting the remainder of the house I noticed the chimney inspection form on the table in the living room and decided to take a look. The chimney company was a reputable local company and their report was properly done. Their price for the inspection was $130, much lower than I was expecting for a level two inspection, as we charge over $200. As I read through the one page report I saw they noted damage to the crown, missing damper, and some clearance issues with the hearth extension. At the bottom of the page it was noted they only performed a level one inspection. There was nothing wrong with the inspection, and I have no issues with the chimney company, however, a level one inspection is included at no extra cost in a home inspection. In fact, we had already noted everything the chimney company did as a part of our inspection. It’s not that they didn’t do a complete job, it’s that the job was done twice, once by them and once by us, and therefore, paid for twice. 

Home Inspectors typically perform a full level one inspection on fireplace chimneys as part of their inspection, in fact in many states it is required to be done as part of the inspection. I don’t have any issue with the chimney companies' inspection or charge, they deserve to get paid for what they did, the issue is that it was unnecessary. The charge got me thinking, how much will a home inspection cost if done by individual trades people rather than being done by a home inspector? There are more advanced inspections that many trades people can do and offer, but for a basic level inspection, the same that would be done by a home inspector, how does the cost compare? 

For prices I went to Thumbtack, a national lead generation program for trades people and to Bob Vila’s website on home repair and maintenance. Here is how they stacked up. 

Roof inspections $75-200 

Plumbing inspection $180-$225 

Electrical inspection $75-125 

Foundation inspection $400-$750 

HVAC inspections $250-$400 

Level 1 Chimney $89-$120 

Total $1,069 - $1,820 

After spending almost three times the cost of an average home inspection, and coordinating six different companies it does not even include inspections of the exterior siding, walkways, doors, windows, appliances, stairs, insulation, and attic. All these areas are required in most home inspections, and we have not considered some of the extra services many inspectors offer for a fee such as radon testing, pest inspections, sewer scopes, level 2 chimney inspections, and water quality testing. 

Next time you consider a home inspectors fee, think about the convenience of having one person or company completing multiple inspections all for the same trip charge and the fee doesn't seem so high anymore.

Are you doing Mold wrong?

Donald Clendaniel

No one likes to hear the house they are looking at has mold, even worse is to hear the house you live in has mold. Mold has been a hot topic in recent years and some estimate as many as one out of every two homes have mold growth somewhere. Most home inspectors will spot mold if it’s there during an inspection and refer to a professional for further evaluation. In New York State that means a licensed mold assessor. Nothing happens until an assessment report is obtained. This means another inspection and another fee. Some home inspectors are also licensed as mold assessors and may offer to write the additional report for fees of $300 -$400 to be paid at the time of the inspection. How well does that go over? Finding mold could double the cost of the inspection, and everything comes to a halt if the buyer can’t or won’t pay for the additional report. And who can blame them, they haven’t even seen the inspection report yet, what if there are other things that need attention? Many times, finding mold means more money, more time, more trips to the house, and more problems to discuss. There must be a better way.

A better way to handle mold at a home inspection…

When we at Carey Home Inspection discover mold during a home inspection we include the initial mold assessment with the home inspection report, at no additional cost. This eliminates the need for another inspection before a remediator can be called. It also means no additional fee at the time of the inspection. What’s best is instead of talking about a major problem, we are all talking about a planned solution. In some cases, remediators have even been calls at the inspection and the mold was removed within a few days resulting in no delay in closing. After the remediator is finished we return to reinspect for clearance, often required for the remediators warranty, we charge a reduced fee of only $250 at that time. Meaning we don’t get paid until all the work is done and the problem is solved. If the buyer chooses not to move forward, there is never a charge for the initial assessment. Why do we do it? Because we are here to help our clients understand the home they are buying, and move through the process. To us, it just seems like the right thing to do. With as many as one out of every two homes possibly having mold, consider calling us first to inspect everything.

Carey Home inspection, Licensed: Home Inspection, Mold Assessment, Termite Inspection, Certified: Radon, Well, and Water Test also.  

Let Carey Home Inspection take the fear out of the process... ...with an honest, and fun look at the home, where defects are explained with a solution that makes sense. If mold is found we will even start the process by providing the initial mold assessment at no cost. We seek to help your client know the house they are buying. Purchasing a home can be stressful, but the trick to making it a treat is to be honest, professional, and caring. Our team is licensed for home, termite, and mold inspections and certified in more than a dozen other services. You can expect a comprehensive inspection in under two hours that your client will appreciate. Starting at $299, scheduling by phone or online, seven days a week.

Licensed in Home, Pest, and Mold Inspections Certified in over a dozen specific home inspection areas Two Inspectors on staff 5 Star Customer Reviews on Google and Yelp Scheduling 7 days a week Reports by 9 AM the next morning No extra fee for weekends or evenings Electronic Radon testing for fast reliable results All major credit cards accepted

May 7, 2017

Preparing Your House for a Home Inspection

Don Clendaniel, Carey Home Inspection

So you have accepted an offer and now the buyer has scheduled a home inspection. What should you do to prepare your house? No, this is not an article on passing a home inspection or avoiding defects. If you have defects they will be found and now is probably not the time to address them. This is about how to get your home ready for the inspector to review. Why would you want to do that? Because you are the one coming home afterwards. A few minutes getting ready can make a huge difference in what you come home to, and whether another trip will be needed. Most home inspectors are respectful, and make every effort to leave no trace that they were there. A little attention to how you leave the house will help, and here are a few areas to focus on.

In the kitchen: Remove items from the sink, the inspector will be running water in the kitchen. Most inspectors wont move things so items left in the sink are likely to get wet if left there. Also, check under the sink, we always look for the water shut offs and if blocked may start feeling around for them. While your putting those disses away, clean off the top of the stove. If the inspector test the appliances, which most do, you don’t want empty pans heating up. Also, ovens are tested to insure they don’t tip when the door is open, Murphy Law says the one that tips will be the one with pots on the burners. Lastly, unplug some items from the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters so they can be tested.

In the bathroom: Items left in the tub or shower will get wet in an inspection, also take a second to turn the shower head in a little. Inspectors check for “functional flow” which requires running the shower. Too often shower heads spay water on the floor if the curtain or door is open. Before leaving the bathroom unplug that electric tooth brush or razor. Most inspectors won’t unplug items to test the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters and simple list it as untested if items are already plugged in.

Attic access: If your home has pull down stairs that great, most don’t. If your attic access is in a bedroom closet take a minute to move items out of the way. If the inspector can’t get to the attic they will likely ask to return after the area has been cleared. Access to the attic is a big deal so most inspectors won’t hesitate to request someone come move the owners personal items and come back the next day.

In the bedrooms and general interior: Pull up the blinds. Inspectors need to test a representative number of window, and some test them all. If your shades are down and curtains closed the inspector will open them. In most cases this is not a concern, however if you have delicate curtains or older shades, even the most careful inspector may not return them the way you prefer. Like the kitchen and bathroom, try to have some outlets accessible, inspectors attempt to test at least one in each room.

These may not sound like much, and most of this will go unnoticed if done, however if not done it can make for not only an inconvenient inspection, it could mean coming home to a house that looks like someone was poking around. While we are actually doing just that, we try not to let it show.

Inspecting Homes for Flippers

Every home purchase should include a thorough home inspection. This is true in most cases, but what about those times when you don’t have confidence you’re going to purchase the home, or can’t get in for a full home inspection. Over the past month I have worked with a few property flippers. 

Thanks to HDTV, and the current real estate inventory low, buying, fixing, and selling homes that have become run down or extended on the market has become increasing popular. Houses sold on auction don’t always have the opportunity to be inspected after contract, and even when they do, many items are shut down and can’t be tested. When the kitchen sink is in the middle of the living room floor and all the light fixtures are gone paying for a full home inspection may not feel like a good use of investment funds. 

Experienced house flippers go through a house with a checklist of basic renovation cost, they typically are looking at footprint, bedroom numbers, and estimating repair and remodel cost. If they are able to put in an offer a home inspection should be a contingency requirement, however, if the house is on auction, paying for a full inspection could be more than needed. Every good flipper needs a home inspector on their team. With just a flashlight, ladder, and four foot level a lot can be learned. For a nominal fee, about a third the cost of a home inspection, many inspectors like myself, will go out with flippers and evaluate a home’s structure. They evaluate the foundation to determine the house has not moved. A peek in the attic to make sure there are no surprises, review of the wiring, and an educated guess on the system like hot water and heat can be made even if they are shut down. 

This way the buyer can focus on what it will take to make the house appealing to the market again and let the inspector worry about the stability of the structure. After less than an hour in the home a conversation takes place and the flipper is armed with the information they need to make a decision. When this is done everyone wins, and if a bid is lost the buyer is not stuck with a useless report about rooms they had planned to gut anyway.